Alps to Adriatic: A Wild Ride from Salzburg to the Sea
The route…
Route: Salzburg, Austria to Grado, Italy - 415kms, 8 days
Route facts:
- Distance: 415km
- Difficulty: 4/5
- Surface: Tarmac and some gravel
- Bike recommended: Hybrid bike
Arrival and departure: Fly in to Salzburg or Munich; fly out of Trieste or Venice.
Best time to go: July and August
Ash, the entertainer
The riders…
Nine riders from across the USA, each bringing their own brand of energy, humour, and heart to the Alps-to-Adriatic adventure.
Jane – The fearless organiser and unofficial “tour mum.” Cool under pressure, endlessly positive, and always keeping the gang in line (well, mostly).
Tom – The calm old statesman of the group. Steady legs, steady voice, and a steady supply of wine-and-Coke toasts at day’s end.
Steve – The walking history channel. Every castle, ruin, and cobblestone had a story — and he knew them all.
Ty – The fixer of all things and fountain of “dumb and dumber” knowledge. If something broke, Ty had it sorted before anyone finished their Aperol.
Chris – The drone pilot and powerhouse, effortlessly conquering climbs while capturing it all from above.
Brian – The e-bike enthusiast and laughter machine. If you heard a booming “Woohoo!” echo through the valley, it was probably Brian.
Cigi – Never complaining and managed to handle a bike too big for her. The group’s creative spark and always remixing songs and spreading good vibes.
Ash – The reluctant adventurer turned full convert — sharp wit, says it how it is, doesn’t mind ‘flipping the bird’ if needed, and surprisingly fierce on the climbs.
Natasja – The sunshine of the squad, all smiles, kindness, and conversations — making friends everywhere from Salzburg cafés to Italian trattorias.
James - Guide number one. Info guy and wellness guy. Loves taking people to a secret spot.
Alex - Guide number two. Enthusiastic about seeing people enjoy themselves and about recollections of places being revisited.
Together they all made quite the picture — panniers packed, spirits high, ready to tackle 415 kilometres of mountains, rain, laughter, and connection
And let the 2025 tour begin…
There’s something special about riding the Alps to Adriatic. The scenery is simply epic, the terrain always challenging and diverse, and there’s usually a surprise or two waiting around the corner. But this particular trip? It had a little extra spice.
9 riders all from the USA were set to take on the eight-day adventure from Salzburg to Grado following the famous Alpe Adria Radweg trail — some on E-bikes and some on trekking bikes, all with panniers for the entire 400km journey. In the lead up it was shaping to be an awesome tour with plenty of inquisitive minds and enthusiasm, but before a single wheel even turned, the universe decided to keep things interesting.
Firstly, one rider broke her ankle just a week out and had to pull out of the tour. Then came more chaos — a wild storm hit northern U.S., grounding flights and leaving three-quarters of the group stranded across the Atlantic.
What to do now? Would the tour still go ahead!? Contingency plans were thrown up in the air, maybe they could all miss the first day’s riding, catch the train along the trail and join from day 2 onwards? The pivotal question still remained unanswered; when could the 6 missing riders make it to Salzburg? Frantic messages back and forth and with no concrete plans in place, we all went to bed the night before the first day’s ride - well some of us in a hotel bed, others in a transit lounge and maybe, just maybe some of us in an aeroplane seat. The guiding team tried to sound calm (“Don’t worry, everything will be fine!”) while quietly wondering how to start a tour without the majority of the riders. One of our guests, Jane — our fearless organiser of most of the group and unofficial tour mum, tried to reassure the group that the remainder will arrive in time to start on day 1.
And she was just about right! The stranded crew landed in Munich at 6 a.m. on the first day’s riding, raced for a three-hour train ride to Salzburg, and somehow managed to unpack, assemble, and roll out that same afternoon. We like to have themes for each of our tours and articulate this through theory and story to our guests. The theme for this tour was connection and resilience, and it felt like they had already delivered that in spades.
Hallein, Austria
Day 1: Planes, Panic, and Panniers
The first day was… unconventional. With most flights delayed, only five of us made it to Salzburg early enough for a short guided tour. Our guide for our tour was Nadine - so knowledgeable about the local culture and history and so generous with her time - highly recommended! The rest followed the next day, a little bleary-eyed but full of excitement.
By lunchtime, we were finally all together — a full team at last. Spirits were sky-high as we set off along the mighty Salzach River, the water running fast from recent rain. Tom, our calm old statesman, pedaled steadily at the front; Brian zipped past on his e-bike with his usual enthusiasm, and Jane kept an eye on everyone like the seasoned leader she was.
Lunch was a classic cycling tour affair — supermarket picnic on the go — before heading toward a nearby gorge, Salzachklamm for our first taste of Austrian scenery. Dinner was a sweaty but joyful affair: schnitzel, schnapps, and laughter echoing through what might’ve been the second-hottest restaurant on earth. Tom’s wine and Coke combo was the highlight of the table.
Day 2: Castles, Conductors, and Climbs
The morning started strong. Tom took an early start while the rest of us visited a nearby castle — straight out of a fairy tale. Steve, ever the history buff, gave us a running commentary that could’ve rivaled a professional guide’s.
We cruised peacefully along the Salzach until, inevitably, the climbs arrived. Chris powered up every incline effortlessly, while the rest of us caught our breath and admired the views — Steve’s jaw was practically on the ground.
Lunch was a casual affair by a lake — Alex ordered two salads (because why not?), and when the bill came, panic struck: cash only. Thankfully, Ty saved the day by finding a secret card reader.
In the afternoon, Jane and Cigi decided to “cheat” a little and hopped a train between Dorfgastein and Hofgastein, giggling the whole way. Tom briefly detoured off-route but redeemed himself with a heroic live-location pin that led us right to the hotel.
That evening’s dinner was hearty, authentically Austrian, and well-earned. The post-ride jacuzzi felt like heaven.
Day 3: The Great Train Scramble
Morning yoga in a tiny hotel room might’ve been a comedy act in itself. Then came the mad dash to the train — elbows flying, panniers everywhere, and one very grumpy rival tour guide handing out dirty looks.
Once aboard, laughter replaced chaos. When we finally hit the trail again, we followed a gentle off-road path toward Obervellach. “Flat all the way!” promised Alex. It wasn’t.
The scenery was stunning: rivers, meadows, and peaks that looked painted against the sky. Steve pointed out bits of history along the way, while Natasja chatted happily with locals we met at coffee stops — her warmth and friendliness winning everyone over instantly.
Lunch was Thai — spicy and unexpected — but soon the weather turned. Thunder cracked, rain poured, and we dove for cover. “They’re dropping like flies!” someone laughed as we scrambled under awnings and trees.
Eventually, most of us hopped a train to Villach, while four brave souls — Chris, Ty, Ash, and Brian — powered through to the end. When they arrived, soaked but smiling, we greeted them like heroes.
Dinner at Harry’s was chaos in the best way — the longest deliberation of steak in history, the waiter’s seemingly mocking tone and astonishment over Tom’s initial order of 3 wines and 2 cokes for himself, Harry’s hunting stories and that damn big carving knife of his; and then finally dinner was served
Day 4: Rain Delay & Kirchtag Cancellations
Day four was meant to be a rest day in Villach — ideally spent enjoying the famous Kirchtag Festival. But the weather gods had other ideas. Rain poured all day, the festival fizzled, and we found comfort instead in bratwurst, pork knuckle, and early bedtimes.
Day 5: Soaked, Soggy, and Still Smiling
The rain stuck around, but so did our spirits. Tom decided to rest his legs while the rest of us geared up and headed out, determined not to let a little water ruin our ride.
We followed rivers and winding forest paths, occasionally drenched but laughing through it all. Ty kept morale high with stories, while Natasja’s good cheer was contagious.
A supermarket stop turned into an impromptu party thanks to Tyler’s find — chocolate liqueur treats and cold cans. Then came the infamous 25% hill at the border. “Who designed this?!” Ash shouted between breaths. But when we finally reached the top and saw the “Benvenuti in Italia” sign, it was all worth it.
In Tarvisio, we were lured into a pizza joint by a man who clearly “knew business.” The pizza took forever but was heavenly. Then came a hiccup — “Hanger’s broken!” — as Ash and Ty’s bike drama unfolded. Calm, cool, and unflappable, Ty worked his magic, and with some quick thinking (and trains), we were back on track.
We ended the day in the valley with terrace wine, laughter, and that golden Italian sunset.
Day 6: Spectacular Scenery, Cold Plunges & Medieval Festivities
The morning began with a bit of spiritual cleansing — quite literally — as we started with a little yoga and stretch session followed by a meander over to the lovely local little church in Pontebba. Ash led the way, stepping inside for a quiet moment before the day’s descending ride. She might’ve been dragged onto this trip, with the lure of Mozart’s music which was well behind her, but she was starting to embrace all this wild scenery business and her dark humour was well appreciated. The route from Pontebba to Gemona is arguably the most spectacular of the entire trip — so beautiful it took us almost an hour and a half to ride 15kms downhill. We even stopped for a guilty pleasure 10kms in - a coffee at the all old railway station at Chisaforte which can can only be described as a cycling and coffee mecca. After coffee, even Tom’s usually constant pedalling legs ground to a halt, as he found a ravine somewhere, the perfect vantage point for a snap of the Cascata Regina, one to the many waterfalls in the area. We were all constantly stopping for photos so Tom eventually caught us up again at the lunch stop in Tolmezzo. This off the beaten path trattoria called Al Cacciatore, is renowned for serving up simple hearty Italian fare perfect for cyclists with still 30km to pedal. And that we did, following the undulating greenway hugging the south side of the river Tagliamento. The group were promised a surprise wellbeing activity in the afternoon. What could it be? Barefoot grape stomping? More Yoga? No…. a cold water-plunge into the natural pools of icy mountain waters to cleanse the soul. After a lot of encouragement, it was lovely! Cigi and Chris dove straight in, soon followed by Steven and Brian and then, well, we were pretty much all in!
The evening promised a night of flare and tradition and it didn’t disappoint. After €2.50 pizza slices eaten on 600-year-old stone steps, we stepped out to the start the medieval festival full of drums, costumes, and chaos. It’s called ‘Tempus est Jocundum’ which involves a full immersion into the Middle Ages; featuring historical parades with participants in period costumes and medieval taverns offering ancient-flavoured dishes and drinks. The fireworks display to finish off the night was actually very impressive.
Palmanova, Italy
Day 7: Palmanova Songs & Dry River beds
From Gemona to Palmanova, the day was sunshine and silliness. Early on, we discovered the Palmanova Song, which belts around people’s heads and Cigi immediately remixed with her own lyrics — catchy, hilarious, and slightly off-key. It became our anthem. Early into the ride, we stumbled across the “magic pools” — crystal-clear rivers that looked too good not to swim in. Alex, our guide promised so much, we couldn’t wait. 5mins later we arrived to a complete dry riverbed, no pools and certainly no swimming. However, this was redeemed by the fact that this would be one of the most iconic photo stops of the trip.
Lunch was at the very renowned Campana d’Oro whose tuna carbonara dish breaks all the rules for excellence - delish! And please, please remember when ordering a lobster for two, the price is per person! Arriving into Palmanova, Steven was in his element — our history buff for all things ancient and fascinating was examining every brick of the nonagon-shaped central plaza. His stories gave every one of the town’s ruins new meaning. Somewhere along the way, his friendship with Alex blossomed into the group’s favourite running joke: the “Alps to Adriatic Love Story.”
Heading out to the plaza just in time for golden hour, it was quickly declared “Aperol time,” and for many of us, it was our first ever — definitely not our last. Natasja clinked glasses with everyone, and the night was all of a sudden young. Dinner was at La Tevernetta di Rosmery Copparoni Osteria which was a lovely change from the traditional pizza and pasta. If cold meats, hearty stews and less common Italian cuisine is your fancy then give it a go. But be warned, it is the number 1 ranked warmest restaurant on planet earth… but worth it.
Steven showing us his archaeological tour guiding skills
Day 8: The Final Leg — From Ruins to the Adriatic
The final morning felt different — excitement mixed with that bittersweet realization that the end was near.
We set off toward Grado, the scent of salt growing stronger with each mile. Our stop at the Archaeological Area of Aquileia turned into an unexpected highlight. Steve came alive, giving us a private guided tour of the Roman ruins, his passion spilling over with every word. We couldn’t have asked for a better finale.
From there, we rolled through quiet countryside and shimmering lagoons. The group kept a steady rhythm going until - there it was. The Adriatic Sea. This was merely for a photo shoot of the group though as we still had another 10km to ride along the coast to Grado. Just 3 km from the finish line, we were thrilled to realise we had made it 400 km from mountains to sea without a single serious crash or injury. And then… BANG!
“Steven is down… Steven is down!”
James rushed to his aid. Steven lay face-first on the pavement.
“Stevie boy! Are you okay? Can you see the stars?” James asked.
“Err… I think I’m okay,” Steven grunted.
Following James’s step-by-step bollard hitting instructions, Steven eventually rolled over. We waited with bated breath to see if there was any real damage.
“I’m okay!” Steven finally said. What a relief.
We rolled into Grado together, the sun warm on our faces and the air heavy with sea salt and satisfaction. From alpine peaks to seaside cafés, from schnitzel to spritz, from chaos to camaraderie — we’d done it. Connection and resilience right to the very end achieved.
The final wash up…
It’s hard to believe how much we fitted into those eight days — the climbs, the laughter, the rain, the songs, and the endless supply of schnitzel, pizza and Aperol. What started as a cycling tour quickly became something bigger: a journey that tested our legs, lifted our spirits, and forged friendships that will outlast any sore muscles.
We each brought something different to the road — Tom’s steady rhythm, Steve’s endless curiosity, Jane’s leadership, Cigi’s joy, Ash’s mischief, Ty’s dumb and dumber knowledge, Chris’s drone skills, Brian’s booming laughter, and Natasja’s out and out kindness.
The Alps to Adriatic gave us all the views and all the challenges we’d hoped for and in reality the real destination wasn’t the Adriatic. It was the friendships we had made with some great people from across the pond. Sitting at the restaurant by the Adriatic, we finished our awards ceremony to bring the tour to a close and Tom raised his Coke and wine combo in a toast, and we all agreed: life was good.
The Adriatic Sea- Grado